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The North
With minority villages straight out of the pages of National Geographic magazine, towering limestone karsts and beautiful winding rivers the far north of Laos is an exciting area of the country that has for a long time been solely the domain of the backpacker. In the last few years the construction of some more comfortable resorts is now opening this area up to a more varied selection of visitors.
Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi Neua
Accessible by both road and river from Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw is a small, sleepy town on the banks of the Nam Ou river, set beneath soaring limestone cliffs that line the riverside. A wonderful base for kayaking, rock climbing or simply relaxing and watching the river flow by, this is also a great starting point for a number of walks to waterfalls and caves, one of which was home to the region's main bank between 1968 and 1974! The '100 Waterfalls' hike is particularly famous and one of the best treks in Laos.
Enjoying one of the prettiest riverside settings in Laos, Muang Ngoi Neua offers a perfect day trip by boat, being just 18kms upriver from Nong Khiaw. A small roadless village flanked by mountains Muang Ngoi Neua is a short hop from timeless Lao, Hmong and Khamu villages. One of the larger minority groups in Laos, the recent history of the Hmong people is particularly interesting. Recruited and armed by the Americans during the 1960s (with vague promises of an independent state) as a 'Secret Army' designed to counter the Lao communists while the US was engaged in Vietnam, the Hmong suffered terrible casualties. Following the victory of the communists many thousands of Hmong left Laos and resettled overseas, with many now residing in the USA.
Muang La
Just 28kms from the booming regional headquarters of Udomxai (and its accompanying domestic airport), Muang La is a charming rural Tai Lü village at the confluence of the Nam La and Nam Phak rivers. Dotted with palm trees, the village is home to a classically styled temple that houses the Phra Singkham, one of Laos' most revered Buddha statues. The 200kg gold and bronze statue is inlaid with precious gems and is thought to date back to within a couple of hundred years of the life of the historical Buddha. Securely housed in a nearby cave during the war when the village was razed to the ground the Phra Singkham has now been returned to its rightful temple location.
With the opening of the Muang La Resort, this beautiful area of Laos can now be enjoyed in true luxury.
Pakbeng & The Slow Boat from Thailand
One of the classic entry points to Northern Laos is via the Thai town of Chiang Khong. Crossing the river to the Lao town of Huay Xai, the two day longboat journey down the mighty Mekong River to Luang Prabang takes one past landscapes of impenetrable jungle covered hillsides, past stilted villages with laughing children playing in the river. The halfway overnight stopping point is Pakbeng, until fairly recently little more than a checkpoint, but now a charming village with two high standard lodges for the traveller in search of a little more comfort.
Options include the luxury scheduled boat operated by the Luang Say Cruise company, with overnight accommodation in their own luxury lodge, or alternatively a private chartered boat with an overnight stop taken at the equally luxurious Pak Beng Lodge.